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pages g a r m e n t s q u i l t i n g t u t o r i a l s r e c i p e s h o m e wednesday, july 27, 2016 rifle paper boylston bra does anyone else "assign" yourself a project, and then over the next several weeks repeatedly think about how you haven't done said project yet, and stress out about it hanging over your head, even though you're the only one that knows about the project and no one will care if you never make it? no? just me? after making a dress out of this beautiful rayon, i decided that i needed to make a bra from the scraps. they sat in a pile for a few months, guilt-tripping me with their presence, taunting me with their silky smooth delightfulness. then i had a sewing weekend with some lovely ladies, and i conquered that pile of scraps . i made a boylston bra , pattern by orange lingerie. first let me talk about the fabric. this is about-to-be-released fabric from cotton+steel [my employer], designed by anna bond of rifle paper company . this is her first fabric collection and it is so divine! the rayon forms the outer cups, frame, bridge and straps. i love the wider fabric straps, especially how they don't look very bra-strap-ish when they poke out from under something. [side note: remember how bra strap headbands were a thing??] all of the findings/notions/other fabrics were from a red bra kit from, terribly, i can't remember. i think it might have been from arte crafts ? the foam is from somewhere else that i also can't remember. it was literally the first thing i bought when i was interested in making bras [for some reason]. aren't i the most helpful sewing blogger?? i love the picot elastic that was in the red kit! i attached the closure on the back with a medium satin stitch. i remember noticing this on a rtw bra and tried to mimic the same look. here is the inside. i lined the frame and bridge with the red duoplex that was in the kit. i wanted a really clean finish on the inside and also was worried that a single layer of rayon would be too delicate. i was a teeny bit concerned it would end up too thick but it's totally fine. the lining made it easy to get a completely sealed-in seam on the sides. i just sewed together the lining and shell bridges/frames, then pinned them right sides together along the sides with the powermesh band sandwiched in between. i sewed, turned right side out, topstitched, and then basted the raw edges of the the frames together. this is my first time making a boylston bra, and the first time doing a foam bra. the pattern doesn't include any info about making a foam lining, but luckily there's an awesome tutorial series about it on cloth habit , so i used that for reference. i did it about 95% right - the foam is a little too bulky right where the strap connects, which i think is because i didn't trim it down far enough. i used a 3 step zig zag to seam the foam cup pieces together, then used bias cut strips of the rayon to cover the seams, which i love. as for size: i have already made several [yet un-blogged] marlborough bras, also by orange lingerie. when initially making the marlborough i went through a little fitting process and ended up making a 34c and removing 1" total from the back band. this was actually a larger size than i should have made based on my measurements, but it worked out. so i went ahead and cut that size in the boylston, figuring the fit would be fairly similar. it fits pretty well, a little bit on the restrictive side but totally wearable. in an effort to use up the extra strap elastic, i used it for the bottom band, only realizing after that it's way less stretchy than the band elastic. so that's part of it. i also probably shouldn't have preemptively shortened the back band. i think that next time i will make a 34d and use the proper elastic, and that might be a little bit more comfortable. here it is on my headless lady friend. this bra is really awesome on. it looks super fancy and, not gonna lie, makes the girls look pretty great. overall i love the boylston bra pattern. i can't wait to make more and continue tweaking. i'm also definitely going to make it into a bathing suit at some point. see how many projects i'm assigning myself? up over my head they go. posted by devon from at 6:00 am 18 comments: email this blogthis! share to twitter share to facebook share to pinterest labels: garments , sewing monday, march 21, 2016 mccall's 7116 / cotton + steel fruit dots rayon should i even talk about how long it's been since i've posted? nah. (except yeah, it's been a really long time. is anyone still reading this? do people still read blogs? what should i have for lunch? if you can answer any of these things, comment below.) this dress is mccall's 7116 made out cotton + steel fruit dots rayon. it has an overlapped, self-faced, gathered bodice, side zip, and bias-cut skirt. these pictures were taken after wearing it two days in a row. let it be known that this was only because i was doing a video at work and had to have the same wardrobe, and no, i don't want no scrub. but i love this dress enough to really not have minded that much. so here are the details: fabric: cotton + steel fruit dots rayon (melody miller) i've already spent time lauding the glorious qualities of c+s rayon. if you've never sewn rayon before and want to know a good place to start, start here. c+s rayon is a teensy bit heftier and *firmer?*beefier?* than any other rayon i've worked with. it just seems to know where to fold itself, and has such a nice, non-clingy drape. it's assertive fabric. it's decisive fabric. it's fabric that knows what it wants. the cherries also come in a deep turquoise/mustard colorway, which is equally as lovely. luckily, the place where i was in-person-shopping only had this colorway. phew. dilemma avoided. i prewashed cold and line dried. my other handmade rayon garments have not stood up well to machine drying, which i know is a rayon no-no, so i'm finally trying to be a grownup about it and actually line drying some things that need it. pattern: mccall's 7116 i bought this pattern impulsively after seeing it posted on the mccall's instagram . suggestion to purchase, obeyed. as with any big 4 patterns, i erred mostly on the side of smaller than what it says. my measurements are 33-27-38 and i cut a 10-12-16. the 16 was actually a size up from what i should have cut, but i'm glad i did since i would not have wanted it any smaller. after muslining just the bodice, the front neckline edges had some serious gaping action, so i took a wedge out there by slashing across the bodice to the armscye, overlapping, and redrawing the front edge to straighten it out. i also thought i might need to take some kind of fba action (i'm always on the edge of needing one), as the bottom edge of the pattern piece seemed too short just under by bust. i was feeling a little adventurous so i just kind of winged the adjustment, and i think it totally worked! i slashed horizontally though the bust point, then up to it and hinged, and just lowered the two hinges by the amount of length i wanted to add. this also added some extra fullness to the gathers. also, the sleeve was too tight. i was about to get all complicated with the slashing and the spreading, when i realized i could just make the pleat smaller and add circumference that way. so much easier! so i added 3/4" to the sleeve, which basically just meant redrawing each pleat line 3/8" in towards the center. the sewing i squeezed this out of about 1 7/8 yards of 45" fabric, with not an inch of extra to spare. this was an amazing and stressful feat accomplished by intense pattern piece tetris-ing and much uncomfortable kneeling on floor. i had to cut everything in a single layer to get it to fit. i added interfacing to the self faced edges of the front bodice neckline. i used fusible tricot interfacing and cut it exactly the width of the facing, so that the fabric wants to fold over right where it should. i used to hate doing side zips for some reason,

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Domain Name: MISSMAKE.COM
Registry Domain ID: 1605771790_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.godaddy.com
Registrar URL: http://www.godaddy.com
Updated Date: 2017-07-10T14:59:54Z
Creation Date: 2010-07-09T18:54:34Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2019-07-09T18:54:34Z
Registrar: GoDaddy.com, LLC
Registrar IANA ID: 146
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Domain Status: clientUpdateProhibited https://icann.org/epp#clientUpdateProhibited
Name Server: NS63.DOMAINCONTROL.COM
Name Server: NS64.DOMAINCONTROL.COM
DNSSEC: unsigned
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  ARGS domain =missmake.com

  PORT 43

  TYPE domain
RegrInfo
DOMAIN

  NAME missmake.com

  CHANGED 2017-07-10

  CREATED 2010-07-09

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